One of the first thoughts that came to my mind when deciding on Coco Chanel for my paper topic was how she no doubt changed women’s’ fashion forever with her impact on social change and push for women’s’ independence. Chanel’s styles such as trousers and suits for women, popularizing skin tan, the color black, branded perfumes and faux jewelry are just a few of her timeless and lasting impacts in the world of fashion. However, she is far less often recognized for the dramatic influence she had on music, art, dance and leadership in what was the true and essential “French Style” through her establishment in most artistic Parisian social circles of the 20’s. Aligning with some of the descriptive terms we’ve discussed in class for what neoclassicism or French music should be, Chanel was often praised at the time for the simplicity, clearness, elegance all captured in the concept: “Chic”
To understand Coco Chanel’s influence in 1920’s french music it’s necessary to first understand her approach to fashion, and her musical aspirations of the past. Chanel sought to gain most of her influence “from the street” and transformed lots of everyday clothes like fishermen uniforms into fashionable dresses for the French upper class. As stated in a 1924 issue of Vogue, “as a rule, the simpler it was, the better.” Thinking back to our discussions of neoclassicism and definitions of french music of the 1920’s by composers of the time, the similarities in artistic styles becomes evident. Chanel actually “aspired to become a music- hall star” in her early life and received her nickname coco from her time singing in moulins. After, being rejected from every audition she had, her involvement in music shifted to “social conquests” and funding of the arts while becoming involved with many famous artists and musicians of the time most notably The Ballet Russes clique and her affair with Igor Stravinsky.
What is known of the affair between Igor Stravinsky is quite one-sided, but Chanel claims to have played a great part in shaping his character, influencing his style of music writing and providing him newfound inspiration, motivation and passion throughout the time he and his family lived in Chanel’s Villa.
The source that I have found the most useful in discovering the intertwined lives of coco Chanel and Stravinsky is the journal article “Chanel, Stravinsky, and Musical Chic” by Mary Davis. The article was published in the 2006 version of Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body, and Culture, a peer reviewed Journal published through a leading humanities and social sciences publisher Routledge. Mary Davis is a professor at Case Western Reserve University. Although dramatized I also found the movie Coco Chanel and Igor Stravinsky helpful in putting faces to the names and seeing the depictions of how strongly Chanel emotionally influenced Stravinsky and major musical events of the time such as the controversial premiere of The Rite of Spring.
Sources:
-Davis, Mary. “Chanel, Stravinsky, and Musical Chic”. Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body, and Culture (2006): 431-452.